Jankuat glacier and Gumachi
Although dominated by much higher and more impressive neighbours, Gumachi is
nevertheless a very popular peak as it is one of the higher and more beautiful
peaks that can be climbed easily in one day from a convenient basecamp. The
East, West and North Ridges are all graded 1B. Probably the most accessible is
the West Ridge that can be reached by walking up the easy Jankuat Glacier to
the Jantugan East Pass (3 hours from the MGU base or nearby Green Hotel,
3480m). The peak can be reached by an easy snow / ice slope and some
scrambling in a further 1 hour.
The North Ridge has to be reached via the Gumachi Pass, 3582m. A short and very
airy snow or ice arete leads to the final summit rocks.
Either route can be problematic on account of crevasses on the Jankuat Glacier
- particularly later in the season.