An elegant peak dominating the Green Hotel at the base of the Jankuat Glacier. The East Ridge / Couloir, grade 2A, is the easiest route but the Jantugan Pass has in recent years become quite difficult making this a long route as it is best approached via the Jankuat Glacier and Jantugan East Pass. Either of the passes are convenient bivouac points. The route initially follows the broad easy ridge and then the final pyramid is climbed by the often snowy east couloir (some short, mixed pitches, beware rock fall). Allow 3 hours from Jantugan Pass, 4 hours from the Jantugan East Pass.
The North-West Ridge, 3B, provides a fine, exposed mixed climb in its upper half. The ridge is reached by easy broad snow couloirs to a Bolster, then a narrowing couloir leads up right of the NW ridge itself till a traverse left onto the ridge can be made. Allow 6-7 hours from the Green Hotel. Descent by the East Ridge is recommended.