Ullukara

 
Ullukara

Ullukara

Adylsu Region

Caucasus
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Ullukara Map
Adylsu Valley
Green Hotel
Jantugan
Bashkara
Trekking
Mountaineering

jankuat glacier and Gumachi
Jantugan (left) and Ullukara N Face (right)

Ullukara, 4302m.
The broad icy North Face of Ullukara overlooks the Bashkara Glacier and Green Hotel. One of the more magnificent ice routes in the Caucasus climbs this face at 4b. It is a very long route, 1400m vertical interval and subject to objective dangers in the lower section. The route initially involves an ascending traverse leftwards, below the North Face, starting from a bivouac at the base the Chegetkarabashi East Ridge, serious crevasse problems possible. This gains an icy rib which is followed to the summit ridge.

The descent route from the North Face is by the Normal Route which is the SW Ridge which in turn is approached from the north. This route in ascent is 3a. Starting from the Red Rocks Bivouac, 3050m, which overlooks the Kashkatash Glacier, the Kashkatash Plateau is first gained (possible bivouac) then steeper ground leads to the Kashkatash Pass, 3730m, 4 hours. From the pass the SW Ridge is followed to the summit, over easy rocks, ice couloirs, slabs and a 5m wall (crux). 5-6 hours from the pass.

bashkara
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ALW 5/06/13