Donguzorun (left side) and Nakratau
The easiest route to the main summit is from the south from Georgia, this follows the SW slope and South Ridge mainly on snow and ice at 2a. The approach to the start is however long from this side. The easiest route from the north is reached via the Yusengi Valley then the East Dongusorun Glacier. From a bivouac here the East Ridge is gained and followed with one difficult section over a gendarme to the East Summit (7-8 hours from the bivouac). A rock and snow ridge leads now leads to the Main Summit.