Cheget Region

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Donguzorun Map

Donguzorun and Nakratau
Donguzorun (left side) and Nakratau

Donguzorun, 4458m.
The impressive north face of this mountain dominates the Cheget glade. One route that finds its way up the north face is more reasonable than any other, this is The Seven named after its prominent shape. It takes icy glacier ramps trending right then back left to a point directly below the main peak. Now steep icy slopes lead up to the summit. Allow two days to the summit from Cheget, 5b, serious objective dangers.

The easiest route to the main summit is from the south from Georgia, this follows the SW slope and South Ridge mainly on snow and ice at 2a. The approach to the start is however long from this side. The easiest route from the north is reached via the Yusengi Valley then the East Dongusorun Glacier. From a bivouac here the East Ridge is gained and followed with one difficult section over a gendarme to the East Summit (7-8 hours from the bivouac). A rock and snow ridge leads now leads to the Main Summit.

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ALW 5/06/13