Adylsu Region

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Adylsu Valley
Gumachi Map
Adyrsu Valley
Green Hotel

jankuat glacier and Gumachi
Jankuat glacier and Gumachi

Gumachi, 3805m
Although dominated by much higher and more impressive neighbours, Gumachi is nevertheless a very popular peak as it is one of the higher and more beautiful peaks that can be climbed easily in one day from a convenient basecamp. The East, West and North Ridges are all graded 1B. Probably the most accessible is the West Ridge that can be reached by walking up the easy Jankuat Glacier to the Jantugan East Pass (3 hours from the MGU base or nearby Green Hotel, 3480m). The peak can be reached by an easy snow / ice slope and some scrambling in a further 1 hour.

The North Ridge has to be reached via the Gumachi Pass, 3582m. A short and very airy snow or ice arete leads to the final summit rocks.

Either route can be problematic on account of crevasses on the Jankuat Glacier - particularly later in the season.

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ALW 5/06/13