Cheget Region

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Nakratau Map

Nakratau and Donguzorun
Nakratau (right) and Donguzorun

Nakratau, 4451m.
The magnificent north faces of Nakratau and Donguzorun dominate Cheget and Terskol villages. The ascent of Donguzorun requires a considerable committment. Nakratau however is quite readily accessible from Cheget. From here it is possible to walk up the Donguz-Orun river then pass the two Donguzorun Lakes to gain a bivouac on the False Donguzorun Pass, 3198m, (beware of border guards on the main Donguzorun Pass).

The shattered NW Ridge now leads up to a steeper more difficult section (turn difficulties to the right) and finally snow slopes lead to the summit (9-10 hours from the bivouac, 2b or 3a if taken direct). There are other bivouac sites available on the ridge.

The most magnificent route on Nakratau however is the North Face climbed by the Left Pillar. This is the safest of the routes on the face and can be climbed in a day starting from a bivouac on the glacial moraines below the face. The bivouac is reached by a leftward rising traverse from the upper Donguzorun Lake. The pillar / ridge is followed mainly on snow interspersed with more difficult rock islands. There is a bivouac ledge on the third rock island, otherwise the climb takes from 12 to 16 hours, 4b.

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ALW 5/06/13